Ever wonder how to incorporate vintage into an essential-ist  wardrobe?

You might not be convinced you’re killin’ it unless you always wear shiny brand new clothes. What may surprise you however is the best essentials are in fact “pre-loved”. I teamed up with industry veteran Alysha Cassis-Shaw of Neutral Ground to take the guesswork out of this sustainable alternative to buying new.

• Read our in-depth chat on how to curate the essential vintage wardrobe pieces you need for 2018.

• Find out where to hang out with Neutral Ground this Spring.

• Plus we’ll address the vintage elephant in the room: vintage fur.

TKP: What are the vintage essentials on your list for 2018 that you cannot live without ?

•  NG: A flattering hi-waisted bottom– I say bottom because for me it can be jeans, it can be a pencil skirt, it can be culottes- but it has to define the waist. Pick the silhouette that works best for you but show off your waist and hips! I love feeling and looking like a woman and to celebrate what makes us different.

• A white or ivory blouse with ruffles, a bow, a pin tuck. I’ve never met a bow or ruffle I didn’t like! An ivory bow tie blouse in silk charmeuse, a vintage cotton Chloe or Oscar de la Renta blouse with scallops and lace inserts. Swoon! You can wear these pieces with anything!

• An LBD from the 1970’s, my favorite decade. I was born in ’75 so a little too young to officially make it out to the disco but I definitely channel my inner Pointer Sister/Sister Sledge when I go out. I did a lot of roller skating as kid! I’m partial to vintage Halston and Pierre Cardin jerseys. My first paid design job was as an assistant fashion designer at Halston so I am steeped in the history of the house and glamour of old NY dance culture. The days where people were partying like it was going out of style. Bianca Jagger rode a horse into Studio 54! Can you imagine that?

• A metallic shoe– I’ve got gold DVF platforms, silver twisted knot I Magnin slides, a rose gold Sergio Rossi kitten heeled slingback… Metallics are glam neutrals and I think they can set off ivory, beige, grey, black just right when a pop of color feels too loud. Go modern-day Wizard of Oz and wear the shine on your feet!

TKP: I’m from Kansas, so you know I can’t wait to add the metallic shoes to my wishlist! Let’s find out a bit more about Neutral Ground. Who is the Neutral Ground woman?

NG: The Neutral Ground woman likes to get dressed up. She doesn’t have to do it every day, but she knows when the occasion calls for it and she shows up.  Tasteful, elegant and maybe a tad understated but always ladylike. She’s the woman you come over to at the party and whisper, “I love that, where did you get it?” The Neutral Ground woman is an original.

TKP: What inspired your business name and why did you launch Neutral Ground?

NG: My business name was inspired by two things.

• The first was the color palette. All of the pieces chosen for Neutral Ground are neutral, white to black and metallics added for pop and interest. The palette is sophisticated and approachable. This can be especially hard for vintage when colors and prints are bold or loud or when you’re not even sure where to go on the clothing rack because it all seems so busy or arresting.
• The “grounding” aspect was the second part. I wanted to curate a collection of vintage and pre-loved pieces that one could easily navigate and incorporate into their existing wardrobe. In shades like ivory, camel, grey, black, silvers, golds, etc… I think you can make an easy segue into vintage. My goal with Neutral Ground is to bring a discerning eye to the genre, take all the guesswork out of whether something is well made or good quality. Make the vintage shopping experience as normal and carefree as it would be in a boutique selling new.

As for starting the business, it grew out of necessity and tapping into a niche I felt wasn’t being filled.

• I’d worked in high-end fashion design and development for 15 years in NY before moving to the bay area with my husband in 2014. I was burnt out, disillusioned with the industry and really needed a break. So I took some time to really get my bearings and understand the Bay Area.

• I took a part-time role with a fashion/tech company in SF to understand fashion outside of the exclusive NY bubble. I also dove into retail and managed a local Oakland boutique. These experiences helped me grasp what real women wanted to wear. And I became in tune to how dedicated people were to sustainability, recycling, originality and supporting small business. I felt re-invigorated to use my expertise and eye for quality fabrics, construction & design and strike out on my own.
• Next it was a matter of applying my knowledge to something I thought people could buy into: pre-owned pieces with a point of view I wasn’t seeing expressed anywhere else. Vintage is popular here, but a lot of it is hard to sift through. Much of the “vintage” I was seeing out the market was simply old, in poor condition, and with little or no curation. I knew I could do better.

TKP: What’s the biggest misconception people have about your industry and what are you doing to change this?

NG: I think many feel fashion is frivolous, unimportant and throw away.

• So much of how we feel about ourselves and how we are perceived by others comes from how we present to the world. When I worked for the fashion/tech company so many clients who’d recently had children, were trying to move up in their careers. Or had gained weight and felt out of touch with their bodies. It really affected their self-esteem and how capable they felt navigating the world.
• Then I think about young people who have grown up with the “casual Fridays” of their parents and the “athleisure” of today. You can be wicked smart, but when you show up in glorified pajamas, many will not take you seriously. So I educate my younger clients on how to put things together and be their brand whenever they’re out in the world. If you’re trying to take over the world, look the part!

As for the throw away factor, it’s the footprint we’re leaving when we continue to keep buying new; new and cheap! There is a huge problem with gross consumption & fast fashion. Vintage is a fantastic way to slow down the cycle of labor exploitation & pollution.

If you can wear something 30, 40, 50 years after it was made, we really should value that over a poorly made piece we’re going to wear a few times and then toss.

TKP:Speaking of 50 year old pieces, I purchased a vintage mink jacket from Goodwill that I sometimes hesitate to wear. I’m sure I’m not the only person with reservations on wearing real fur. What are you thoughts on whether vintage fur is an ethical choice? And how do you style vintage fur for the modern woman?

NG: Had you asked me about any fur, 4 or 5 years ago I’d have said no fur is ethical fur. I don’t advocate for any sort of animal cruelty and don’t think animals in the present day should be killed for a new coat.

I am an advocate for vintage fur, however, as I believe in giving a coat that might be sitting in an attic or basement or in a storage locker somewhere, new life. If these pieces are still in good condition, they should be worn until they can’t be anymore. I feel it’s the least we can do so these animals did not die in vain, not create further waste or cruelty. And in the case of an inherited item, pay homage to a loved one who may have really scrimped and saved to have this one luxury piece in their wardrobe.

As for modern-day wear, it’s a vest as it’s the right layering piece for the bay area microclimates. I’ve worn it with a turtleneck, boots and jeans as easily as a full length crushed velvet dress. It might not work in the bay’s coldest months, but that’s where a stole or cape fills in. I think the idea of being able to throw something over your shoulders makes fur much more modern. It feels slightly bohemian in an area where that vibe is very much alive and well.

TKP:What is your vision for your business or industry in the next year?

NG: Exposure. The brand is not even a year old yet so letting people know who we are, what we represent is important. I partner on a brick and mortar space called Concept 47 in the Lower Haight section of SF. Having a space to personally interact with clients on a regular basis has been important. I’ve learned a lot.

However we all know how retail is changing, and no one can survive on brick and mortar alone. So this year will be about partnerships with other like minded brands, pop-ups, vintage markets, cross promotion. We’re striving to become a go- to in the bay area for women’s vintage fashion.

TKP: Speaking of pop-ups where can we shop NeutralGround in the Bay Area this Spring?

NG: In addition to our site shopneutralground you can find us at several Bay Area events:

April 14th- Bouquet Market- A wonderfully curated outdoor vintage market in the heart of Berkeley’s 4th street retail corridor. bouquetmarketplace.com

Can’t wait to see you there!

XoXo, TenKeyPieces